Further Developments of Colour Palettes

All pink, purple and red hues, with a hint of black

Analogous Colour Combination

Addition of orange: Needs small proportion of orange

Addition of Brown: Good proportions and I like the combination of 3 different shades of pink/purple on the far right model

Far left model has a good combination of black, pink and purple

Too much brown is used. Brown goes well with dark purple

Focusing on proportions:

One key aspect of the Miu Miu Collections is that black is the dominant hue, which is then paired with one other hue, with varying values and chromas. I've established that the collection looks best when purple is the dominant hue with black and have added an additional yellow/orange hue for variation and contrast.

Below I have tested a collection with 28 pieces and I have applied the correct proportions in terms of hues used as well as pattern and prints, according Miu Miu's previous collections.

Approximately 60% of the outfits include black

About 80% of the collection uses a different shade of purple. This percentage is quite high, as although one hue normally dominates the collection, the proportions are normally shared between 2 hues. However, in this example I have used lots of variation of the same hue, some of the purples are more pink and others, more blue.

In terms of pattern, I have used a mixture of over all patter, as well as block motifs. This is something that Miu Miu does too. Pattern is not always included in the collections, however it is a common characteristic of Miu Miu, therefore I have allocated 35% of the collection to have pattern.

Above show sample examples of potential patterns and motifs inspired by Cubsim. The shapes used are geometric, as well as fragmented faces. These patterns will need to be developed further.

Initial Colour Palette

From researching previous Miu Miu collections and looking at last and next seasons colour trends I have created a colour palette with the following colours:




Black is a dominant colour in most of Miu Miu's collections and this is often paired with red or orange.

Purple is a key colour in this current seasons palette and is also predicted to be a key colour in next seasons trends.

Brown is complimentary colour to orange and red as they a positioned next to one another on the colour wheel and the lighter caramel and cream hues are good for contast and balance with all the stronger, vibrant hues.

Variation 1:


In this variation, only 6 hues are used. There is a balance in proportion between the black and the plum with a hint of pink and red. 2 Shades of red are used to create an analogous scheme. This is a common formular adopted by Miu Miu. I feel that there is too much balance in this variation, as normally Miu Miu uses one or two hues to dominate the schemeand then a few hues to accent it.

Variation 2


I have used beige as the dominant hue in this colour scheme. I feel that the contrast between beige and black is too great, as Miu Miu often uses subtle variations of the same hue.
I also feel that too much pink is used in this collection. Although pink is a key colour in this seasons trends, I think that it would work better in moderation, or would be more subtle if teamed with other tones of purple or red. The red does not work well with this colour combination, there is no real order or balance so the colours don't flow well.


Variation 3

This colour scheme looks too similar to one of Miu Miu's previous collections. Although there is a good balance of colour, there needs to be more variation.

There is hardly any purple used, and this is a vital colour for the seasons trends.
I particularly like the combination of red and black in this palette because it is dramatic and also purple and black; the darker hues give depth to the collection.





Variation 4


There is a real clash of colour in this palette. Following the proportions adopted by Miu Miu, I tried to incorporate 2 different colour groups to give the 'split identity' feel of the brand, however, as the sample is on such a small scale it doesn't work out so well. The colour groups are too isolated from one another and do not flow well or compliment each other. There needs to be a colour that combines the two colour groups, i.e the oranges, reds and beiges, with the pinks and purples (applying the Principle of Order).



Variation 5

The colour combination of red and black is good in this collection, however, again i feel that too little purple is used so the proportions are not right.












Variation 6
I think that this colour palette is too bright. There is too much cream used, which doesn't fit in with the usual colour palettes of Miu Miu or with the colour palette of the season. Having darker hues to dominate the collection would be better.

The mix of two different tones of the same hue, works really well. In this instance, the darker shade of purple with the lighter one creates subtle contrast.





Variation 7
There is far too much beige used in this colour palette. I think that there should only be a hint of beige to brighter and accent the collection rather than dominate it.

I like the subtle contrast in hues such as red, orange and beige. This combination can be applied to a variety of hues in an analogous way.

What also is appealing is the use of two similar hues, such as orange and cream, combined with black.



Variation 8





One style that works best is when black dominates the outfit and one other hue is used as an accessory, for example the far left dress is all black with a beige waistband. This gives the collection a sophisticated and elegant feel.
The use of pink, red and purple is also pleasing.












Variation 9

I felt that there wasn't enough variation in the colour palette so tested with a different hue altogether. Miu Miu collections often use navy blue as a dominant colour so I tried this, however, the chroma, saturation and value is all wrong so the colours do not match at all. The combination of blue and red works well though.

Inspiration for FW 09/10 Collection: Cubism

Cubism


This is one of the most influential art movements of the twentieth century, Cubism was begun by Pablo Picasso (Spanish, 1882-1973) and Georges Braque (French, 1882-1963) in 1907. They were greatly inspired by African sculpture, by painters Paul Cezanne (French, 1839-1906) and Georges Seurat (French, 1859-1891), and by the Fauves.


In Cubism the subject matter is broken up, analysed, and reassembled in an abstracted form. Cubism treats nature in terms of the essential geometric shapes: the cylinder, the sphere and the cone.


The Cubist painters rejected the inherited concept that art should copy nature, or that they should adopt the traditional techniques of perspective, modeling, and foreshortening. They wanted instead to emphasize the two-dimensionality of the canvas. So they reduced and fractured objects into geometric forms, and then realigned these within a shallow, relieflike space. They also used multiple or contrasting vantage points.


Between 1909 and 1911, the analysis of human forms and still lifes (hence the name -- Analytical Cubism) led to the creation of a new stylistic system which allowed the artists to transpose the three-dimensional subjects into the flat images on the surface of the canvas. An object, seen from various points of view, could be reconstructed using particular separate "views" which overlapped and intersected, creating fragmentations. Since color supposedly interfered in purely intellectual perception of the form, the Cubist palette was restricted to a narrow, almost monochromatic scale, dominated by grays and browns.

Below are some examples of Cubism work. As you can see the composition of the work is made up of geometric shapes. There is also a lot of distortion in the shapes as they have been fractured and fragmented. Bright colours are used such as hues of red and yellow. The image on the far right is a analogous, where different shades of blue are used to create pattern.



Why have I chosen Cubism?



I have chosen to use Cubism as a point of inspiration because similarities between the key features of Miu Miu designs and Cubism. The characteristics of Cubism ties in well with Miu Miu's brand identity, as well as with previous collections.



The original artists of Cubism drew inspiration from African Sculpture which can be compared to Miu Miu, which draws inspiration from cultures, including African tribes, and portrays this through patterns and prints.



Abstract shapes: Miu Miu uses exaggerated and distorted shapes and images, such as enlarging characateurs as a print until it becomes abstract - depicting only dots and lines. This can be compared to Cubism, where the images are fractured, fragmented and reduced.



Monochromatic: Cubism was originally restricted to a monochromatic scale. Miu Miu often uses black and white as dominant colours in the collections, but also commonly applies an Analogous colour scheme. For example uses a variety of values and chromas of one hue such as blue, which gives a monochromatic effect but with more variation and interest.

Inspiration of Miu Miu's Past Collections

Here is an overview of where inspiration has come from for different collections.

A/W 08: Sports and Surrealism

Miuccia Prada fixated on, jockey uniforms, stating, "I wanted to take sport in a new direction,"

Applying the Principle of Novelty, she uses bold, exaggerated bright hues with high chromas and values. This exaggerated, almost distorted look can be compared to the work of Surrealists such as Salvador Dali.

Above you can see the similarities between the use of vivid, unatural hues.

The 'fake', vivid and exagerated element links in heavily with the brand and its ‘atmospheric’ former collections and the brand pholisophy: more fun and youthful side of fashion.

This collection also shows strong links with the mid 1950’s pop art movement. Pop art was all about popular culture and challenging and distancing the mass market for a dramatic effect. There is an everyday element to Miu Miu’s advertisement above yet it has been challenged by the use of colour and therefore become more aggressive. In a similar way to Pop Art, the colours used in Miu Miu's collection are artificial, bold and bright. Below are some examples of Pop Art.

The images above demonstrate the application of bright hues in Pop Art. The images in the middle and on the right can be compared to those of Miu Miu's A/W 08 Collection because it is clear to see that the women's features have been exaggerated and enhanced by the use of unnatural, bold colours.

S/S 09: European History

It's an investigation of our history, of our European past." With that big idea in mind, Miuccia Prada sent out a focused collection of nipped-waist dresses, as well as tops and skirts in pleated burlap or silk, most of them layered with a low, hip-slung apron.

In terms of relation to history, Miu Miu used prints that looked like painted Roman tiles; magnifying as the show progressed so that faces in profile eventually abstracted into random assemblages of square dots. Below are some examples. They demonstrate the Roman, historical theme through the use of pattern and print.

S/S 08: Theatre

What do Swan Lake dancers, sumo wresters, a girl in a French-maid costume, Playboy Bunnies, and a Burning Man festivalgoer have in common? Not much, unless you're Miuccia Prada. For Spring, she said she was thinking about "life as theater, and all the clichés of how people represent themselves in the world." So, videos and photographs of these and numerous other characters were projected onto screens.

The theme of theatre is portrayed through the use of pattern, such as harlequin and stripes, as well as through the choice of silhoutte and shapes, such as the mini puffed skirts in the style of a ballet tutu. Over all there is a fantastical element about the collection, which is a key feature in the brands identity.

S/S07: Russian Constructivism, African and Japenese

Miuccia Prada was considering Russian Constructivm, as well as the elegance of an elongated line. Styles included duches satin shirts and tunics colour blocked in shades of navy, black and wine, worn with high- waisted tapering trousers. Dresses had African influences with the use of tribal prints and a Japanese flavour using origami-like folds of shiny fabrics decorating the shoulder or hip.

Above are examples showing styles that reflect the themes of Russian Constructivism (left) due to the stark design, cut and shape of the fitted trousers and box-shape blouse; African tribal look, with the wine red hue and the geometric print; Japanese influence, with the Origami-style applique and the long, straight, silhoutte.

Conclusion

It is evident that Miuccia Prada is inspired by a lot of art movements and cultures, for example Pop Art, Surrealism and Russian , as well as Italian, African and Japanese Culture.

Miu Miu often takes a fantasical stance in her designs, creating shapes, patterns, prints, styles and colours that are exaggerated, distorted and out of the ordinary. This plays with the Principle of Novelty, and portrays Miu Miu as a young fun brand.

I have taken this into consideration when thinking about inspiration for my collection and will investigate the Art Movement, Cubism.

Inspiration from AW 08 Trends: Colours & Themes

As the collection will be for Autumn Winter, it is crucial to look at last years Autumn Winter trends, themes and colour palettes as there should be a fluid and logical transition between the two seasons.

Below are trend inspirations obtained from WGSN. From these, I can take inspiration for the next AW collection that I am designing for.

There are 4 key themes demonstrated:

1) Chronicle
Colours are subdued and warm, with low values and chromas. Dark blues and greens are mixed with browns and beiges. The colours look very natural. This theme doesn't really tie in well with Miu Miu's colour philosophy, which normally adopts vivid and high chroma hues.

2) Ad Hoc
These theme uses a similar colour palette to Chronicle, applying the principle of familiarity, where all natural hues are used. Again, the hues are not strong enough in value and intensity to be fitting with Miu Miu's image. Miu Miu is the sister brand of Prada, empitomising the fun, playful nature of fashion, therefore, bolder, more exciting colours need to be included in the colour palette.

3) Studio
Higher value hues are used with Vermilon and Gauloises. The Complimentary colour theory is applied here, where colours opposite in the wheel are put together, such as Cobalt and Brick. This creates contrast, enhances their values and adds intensity to the colour scheme. This is something that Miu Miu often does in its collections. The collections are normally divided into two, showing two differing, yet complimenting colour palettes. This often includes hot and cold colour groups, which creates real contrast and gives the collection a schizophrenic feel.

4) Flourish
This theme is very natural and earthy. This colour scheme is fresh and vibrant making use of pinks and purples, such as Mulberry and Cerise. Despite the boldness of colour, the hues still look quite natural, especially when placed with greens and blues. Using softer tones and of colours such as Sorrel, creates balance to the scheme and doesn't make the harsh, intense pinks so over powering. This colour scheme is more in line with Miu Miu's colour philosphy because of the mix of harsh and soft hues. The intense pinks and purples, give the theme a certain edge of fakeness, linking with the Principle of Novelty. This is something common in the Miu Miu collections.

The vibrancy of this colour palette is really striking, especially the hot pink, the turquoise and the deep purple hues. Although the colours have been and could all potentially be used in Miu Miu's collections, the scheme is far too broad. In keeping with Miu Miu's colour philospophy, I will need to limit the collection to fewer hues and just very the tints and tones to create difference in the way that Miu Miu does.

This theme links in so well with Miu Miu as a brand because of its element of Schizophrenia: completely opposing colour groups are matched together in a pleasing manner. For example, the Bubblegum Pink and Damsone make an unlikely match with Evergreen and Cobalt. This is one key factor that defines Miu Miu's collections: pairing together the unlikely.

Womenswear Early Colour Analysis

In order to make sure that my colour palette for the Miu Miu collection follows on from what is currently in fashion I have researched to see what colour groups are on trend.

These colours demonstrate what is on trend for Spring/Summer 09, having evolved from Fall/Winter 08/09. This will therefore put me in the right direction, when designing for the next season.



Neutral
Neutral tones take on a more warmly shaded, yellow-tinged caste this season.

Miu Miu doesn't often use neutral tones, applying ones with more intenstity and value. However, soft neutral tones are often used to accent the collection and create interest and a point of difference.

Orange/red
A newly emerging level developed from autumn/winter 2008/09. Creamy vanilla- and apricot-influenced pastels through to more exotic coral and tomato reds are imbued with an orange-red glow.

Oranges and reds are often used by Miu Miu and are paired with beiges and black. The richness and intensity of Tomoato works well with the low value tones of Coral and Desert Flower.

Pink
Pint shades take on a natural, powdery complexion or alternatively are deliciously fresh, sugary and edible, in the form of tangy sorbet and jelly through to candied artificiality.

Plum is often used by Miu Miu, teamed with rich wine reds. However, it works well with the softer, lighter tints of Candy Floss Pink and Red Earth.

Brown
Browns take on mellow, sun-ripened amber and golden castes, from tannin-infused biscuit and tea shades through to more rich and aromatic coffee tones.

Browns are a perfect transition into A/W as they are natural warm, firey colours that evoke images of Autumn leaves and wood. These colours would work really well with reds and corals.

Blue
A concise level of purple-influenced blues evolve from autumn/winter 2008/09 with a cool ultraviolet intensity.

I really like the intestity of the blue with purple.

Blue/grey
Crisp blue shades are permeated by cool grey for a chilled aqua caste, from the palest misty tones through to the deepest slate, indigo and pitchy darks.

Navy blue is a dominant colour in a lot of Miu Miu's collections, however it is normally used with red. In this instance though, putting it with shades of grey make it more wintery and make it appear a lot cooler.

Yellow/green
Yellow-influenced green shades continue from autumn/winter 2008/09, becoming more fresh and verdant or bright and acidic in tone. Yellow infuses the palette rather than making a standalone colour statement.

The yellow-influence on the green shades gives them a more natural feel, applying the principle of order and familiarity. The lack of contrast between the yellow and the green gives a mononchromatic appearance, which Miu Miu often has in the collections.

Mood Board: Purple

Mood Boards can be used as a tool to provide a focal point and direction when thinking about colours. It can evoke inspiration for colours, themes and styles and trends.

The moodboard is based on the hue purple and it displays an array of tints, tones and shades of purple. The overall mood is calm and the colours are generally quite cold, although, the higher value tones of purple, such as plum, add warmth.