Miu Miu: The Brand

In order to truly understand and identify Miu Miu as a brand, intial research was carried out, looking at the history of Miu Miu, previous advertising campaigns, the Miu Miu store and previous RTW Collections.

Miu Miu: Background

Miu Miu is positioned as a fashion-forward yet more affordable line from Prada, named after Miuciana Prada’s nickname as a child. Set up in 1992 Miu Miu reflects a younger demographic including artistic designs, often simplistically conveyed by means of vintage-inspired styling. Considering the so-called ‘Ten Year Cycle’ of fashion - by incorporating pieces and looks from historical periods, rejuvenating, reworking and contemporising the styling just prior to the ideas being taken on by other major brands - Miu Miu remains as a dictator within its market.
Within the collections, childhood inspired elements blend with unnatural colour combinations in a fantastical but somehow sensual world. The philosophy behind Miu Miu reflects the multi-faceted nature of the brand, how “Miuciana Prada’s vision of the Miu Miu woman is continually redefined”, utilising each seasons’ collection to make commentary on current social or political issues of importance to her and establishing a “complicated feminine ideal”.
The brand philosophy continues to classify the typical Miu Miu styling:“Where ingrained elegance meets immediacy and lightness. Where independence, improbably, meets sensuality. Where sophistication meets nonchalance.”
These contrasts in terms illustrate the somewhat eclectic nature of Miu Miu collections, how any expectations of the brand can be disregarded apart from the knowledge there will be a visual feast in store!

Considering the Miu Miu brand philosophy, the Spring 2009 Ready-To-Wear collection did not disappoint in artistic flair. "An investigation of our history, of our European past" is how Miuciana Prada described the newest show in Paris, with prints on dresses and blouses reflecting Roman printed tiles in terracottas, camels, midnight blues, corals, greys and yellows. Normally employing colour theories including principles of novelty and alternations and contrasts of colour, this collection veered more towards the principle of resemblance, some colours harmonizing well with accents in exaggerated tones to highlight accordingly. However eccentric abstract floral prints were combined with pleats, graffiti style spray paint embellishments and apron style adornments in an eclectic palette of colours. Neutrals included a mushroom beige and black combination throughout with bright pinks and lilac grafitti, reds to highlight and yellow and terracottas within the Roman-style prints. Linking the current collection with European history of Rome and Italy, Miu Mui collections are also reminiscent of the artist Salvador Dali in their quirky surrealism, schizophrenic changes in colour and fantasy shapes and contexts.

However all collections share qualities of artistic origin; most significantly the Spring/Summer 2007 collection with sexy harlequin and circus inspired styling. Dresses were adorned with caricature faces, were reminiscent of pop artists such as Lichtenstein and Warhol in the combination of highly chromatic and exaggerated colours, maximizing the principle of novelty throughout.

Also in terms of culture Miuciana Prada is known to incorporate current social issues into her collections, one past range commenting on the artificial nature of women aspiring to unreachable levels of perfection; another on the theatrical nature of life as a show. Within the latest Spring 2009 RTW collection, hemlines are low, falling below the knee which reflects the current social economic climate (it is said that in times of wealth skirts will be short, and in times of recession hemlines will be lower). This economic climate is also reflected in the lack of so many ‘avant-garde’ pieces; most were sexily simple and more classic in design, rendering their life-in-service longer and more appealing in times of an uncertain future.
Considering Miu Miu’s brand philosophy that the Miu Miu woman is continually reinventing herself the design process will be relatively free and open to interpretation, designing a collection for Autumn/Winter 2009 will be based on the following main principles:

1. reliance on cultural symbolism

2. conceptually artistic inspirations
3. childlike metaphors

4. feminine styling

5. fantastical imagery

6. vivid colour palette, with unnatural tones

7. commentary on social issues

Miu Miu: Advertising Campaigns

Advertising campaigns are also an interesting way to interpret the designer’s direction for the season. Miu Miu’s advertising campaign for spring 2008 uses a balance of colour and a variety of hue. Both light and dark values, bright and dull intensities have been used which all balance the colour scheme. The red floor has a high value due to its dark colour and shade which contrasts heavily with the high chroma purple curtain. The matt and shiny textures of the colour mix well and give the image a feeling of seduction and playfulness. I really love how the image can convey a feeling about the collection without seeing the more than garment. It gives emphasis on the importance of colour within fashion design and how an advertisement can portray the inspirations and aspirations behind one season’s collection.

The colours used throughout the Miu Miu autumn winter campaigns are reflected as unnatural. For example the blue used for the sky and the grey used for the tarmac are not ‘lifelike’ but unnatural and accentuated colours of nature and the natural world as we know it. As a result there is a strong emphasis placed on colour and the contrast between the pale skin on the model and the acidic red of her lips. The colour palette used creates intensity and highlights the relationship and interaction between the light source, background, colour and object colour. It almost gives a cartoon, surreal feeling to the advert. There is a more childish and vivid element which links in heavily with the brand and its ‘atmospheric’ former collections which represent a more fun youthful side of fashion.Looking closely at the advertisements there is also a strong link with the mid 1950’s pop art movement. Pop art was all about popular culture and challenging and distancing the mass market for a dramatic effect. There is an everyday element to Miu Miu’s advertisement above yet it has been challenged by the use of colour and therefore become more aggressive. This can be related to many pop artists one of the most influential being Roy Lichtenstein, and example of his work can be seen below; 1963, ‘In the Car.’

It also ties in with Miuccia Prada’s vision of the brand and her strive for a alternative style, characterised by the brands strong identity and unique hand writing. However the style still remains classic, it is simply just reinterpreted and updated, 'Miu Miu is always more about fashion than Prada, more about atmosphere, more sensual. It's light and free. Not serious. Age is not really fundamental; the spirit is more important than age. It's more the idea and the spirit that counts.' (Miuccia Prada)Each past and present collection tells its own story and the vision of the brand is constantly being redefined. The brand is designed for women who cannot be defined, it isn’t ‘safe’ in terms of use of colour. Miuccia Prada was an early feminist and this is reflected in her designs from season to season, as well as strongly reflected in each seasonal advertisement. Nothing is reserved about her designs; it is all about shape, lines and bold use of colour. The brand plays on the fact that there is no feminine ideal. Spirit strongly overrides age, with age no longer becoming a fundamental element; the brand is based on ‘Child Women.’ Miu Miu store in Hong KongThe Miu Miu store in Hong Kong uses a bright feminine hue with high chroma which gives the feeling of a light, bright and spacious building consequently drawing consumers into the store. The colour yellow is also associated with summer and happiness therefore the familiarity and associations with this colour are pleasing and readily accepted, as a result the mood reflected is one of radiance and pleasure. Customers will be more likely to enter the store and purchase feeling satisfied, the perception is positive. This also relates to the youthfulness of the brand and its image.